Day 15 – Retreat to Dingbuche After the longest approaching of our lives; 12 days hike, of which 4 days was for acclimatization, and 8 hours of actual approach to the top of Lobuche, we begin the journey downwards. For the past 5 days We lived at no less than 4,900 meters.
A solid night sleep at base camp, we naturally wake up at 6am. As breakfast was prepared we suffer our last bit of AMS and pack our packs. We are to carry our 20kg packs all the way down to Lukla where our flight awaits us back to Kathmandu.
We were told we can lighten our loads and give our climbing gear to the porters who’ll leave the gear in Lukla for us to repack. We were not going to deny that.
Shortly after, we start our first of lasts. Starting with base camp. 2.5 hours later, we descended to 4,600 meters, the lowest altitude we’ve been in in over 5 days, at Dingbuche. Our AMS instantly completely over. And we feel strong with our breathing.
We remember reaching this altitude the first time suffering our first serious symptoms of AMS. Now we cheer at the fact we have reached this altitude again and getting rid of AMS.
An overwhelming sadness flooded us as we realize this is the beginning of the end. The climax of Lobuche peak is over and before s the long sad journey back down. But to new and exciting adventures back home in South Africa!
Day 14 – 2nd attempt for the summit “Wake up Didi!” Won shouted. Didi meant sister in Sherpa. He shouted at Christa.
“We’re up! We’re up!” Ian responded back.
Well, second attempt for the summit. Hours earlier we had as gourmet of a feast as our AMS would allow. It’s funny, we’d thought we’d acclimitze faster. It’s been one week already living at 4,900 meters ASL and we’re still not fully acclimitized.
We head back up the same route as yesterday, but stronger. Less stops and shorter ones too. We scramble up boulders and pass sketchy roped sections and scramble some more.
By day break, our pace has slowed significantly. That would be 4.5 hours into the hike up. We also passed the snow line and currently trudging on ice. Ian started using his ice axe as Christa gets helped up by the guide. What a gentleman he is.
“You have the biggest smile on your face” Christa said to Ian as she looked back. “And it’s been such a huge smile since we’ve started this hike”
Looking ahead to the summit
Finally the guides stop on a sunny plateau where the sun was beating down the ice. We slapped on our boots and crampons, put on our harnesses and attached ourselves to the line that was set up. The longest rest so far on the trek up. About 30 minutes. We’re at the 6 hour mark of just pure uphill hiking and scrambling. The climbing starts now.
We’re attached to the main safety line by a jumar. Ice pick goes in, using the French Technique, Ian smacks up the side of the mountain. *SMACK SMACK SMACK Rest – slide jumar up* Breath for what feels like 10 minutes, sucking in oxygen through a straw. We are considered at the extreme end of lack of oxygen. At this altitude, we have 9.7% oxygen compared to 21% at sea level. That’s less than half of the oxygen required to function normally.
At this point Christa has suffered as much as she could. 50 meters from the summit she decides to retreat. It’s the smartest thing to do, to know your limits. Had she pushed her limit to keep going, dangerous situations may come sideswipe us blind sided. She turns to head down with her guide leaving Ian and Won to hit the summit.
Victory summit salute!
Ian sees Won run up to the top and decides he could do that too, for the last 5 meters of the climb. Worst idea ever. Oxygen never made it to the brain and his vision goes black. Comes to a split second later breathing his heart out of his throat and crawls up the rest of the 4 meters.
Snap a few pictures, document the top, and retreat. Loaded up the ATC and started the rappell back down. End up at the plateau change into hiking boots and descended using the French Technique.
3 hours later, everyone arrives at camp. 3pm, we get to eat and pass out
Day 5 – Trek We wake up, pack, eat breakfast and set out for Namche Bazaar at 8 am. It was 3 hours away. This is also the first big altitude hike. Climbing from 2,700 meters to 3,400 (approx.) We didn’t know it could take 4 hours to climb 700 vertical meters.
We follow the river bends from the glacial melt up the trail. After the one bend, we were able to catch iur first glimpses of Everest. It was so far away, but it was still so big. From here on out, it was straight up hill.
We also started to experience the thinner air with heavier breathing and more rests. It took a lot more effort to hike up hill. The porters shot straight up carrying our 40kg bags. They arrived 2 hours before us while carrying our gear while we carried nothing. We’ve never felt so unfit in our lives.
Tea houses also completely disappeared from our previous day. Water, snacks and civilization is starting to become more and more dispersed as villages get further away from more easily accessible roads. Were spending 2 nights in namche bazaar to acclimatize to the altitude.
Day 8 – Dingbuche and more acclimatization. A 4 hour hike that otherwise would’ve taken 2 hours. It seems like every time frame that’s given to us we should add 1.5 to it. These porters and guides not only carry a load of stuff, but they’re also per-acclimatized to this altitude. We made it to 4,300 meters today.
Were starting to see familiar faces on the trip as other trekkers are taking the same route. Were starting to hear stories of people getting altitude sickness. Ian got his share before pangboche, just yesterday. Christa is holding out strong. were not blasting up huge altitudes every day. Were to stay here in dingbuche for 2 days to acclimatized more.
We also finally dived into a hot showered. 450 rupees. That’s about 5 dollars. It’ll get more expensive as we go up. But this would be (so we think) our last real stop before heading up, so were like to shower. Well probably be doing the wipe down afterwards with next to freezing water.
We are now also in yak territory. And snow territory. And constant high winds territory. Good thing were staying in a tent tonight to Get ready for base camp at lobuche. It’ll be colder and windier than here.
Ian looks out the cockpit window of the twin otter plane twin propeller plane. The runway is in full view of and covers the whole window. That usually doesn’t happen when you’re about to land. A huge “thunk” and jostle and the plane lands.
The flight in, you fly through the valley of the khumbu glacier melt, which comes from Everest. On one side you can see the bottom of the valley, the other, the mountain wall of some snow capped Peak.
Lukla. The worlds most dangerous runway. The biggest planes are twin engines that can fit on the run way. The runway sits on a 11 degree incline and its very short. The way the plane takes off is pretty much dive bombing down the end of the runway. We land and use the uphill incline to slowdown and stop.
The valley heading up
We get our packs and follow Pema. This route is actually more popular than originally thought. But most people are only going as far as namche bazaar. Few make it to base camp and even less go to Lobuche. We also meet our porters for the first time. We have two porters, one for each of our packs. They’re to carry our food, tent, kitchen and more climbing equipment later on. Our packs together already total 40 kgs. Were expecting to meet up with our climbing guide and cook later on when we get closer to lobuche. What logistics to get 2 people up a peak! We eat a simple egg breakfast and start our trek!
Half way through the hike, we realize Christa’s hiking shoes decided to die on her. The soles literally ripped apart. And then even more a little further down the road. It was fixed temporarily by tying a hair band around the shoe. We jimmied it at night so hopefully we can get to our next destination to get shoes. Ian’s stomach bug loves his bum. He left in the morning realizing there is something still brewing inside. Time to call the insurance! Lets hope it works out.
We get into our first stop and stay in a tea house. There a so many tea houses along the way its ridiculous. We wouldn’t have to bring anything! Along this route, its so based on trekker tourism that everything is catered toward that. We have dinner at the same place. There really isn’t much option otherwise as far as food goes.
The tea house is basic, 2 beds with shared washroom. You have to pay for hot water shower and for electricity to charge your phones and what not. Luckily, we have our solar charger so we don’t need it… yet. After dinner at 8 everything shuts down and everyone goes to bed. Its party central here! Good first day of actual hiking.
Ok guys, here’s the long awaited trek and climb in the Himalaya Lobuche Peak, in Nepal! There’s brief description of each day and will elaborate more in each section when there’s more to read.
Looking ahead to the summit, Himalaya Lobuche Peak
To-knows before reading:
AMS = Acute Mountain Sickness, also known as altituded sickness where the body tries to compensate for lack of atmosphere and oxygen to the brain
EBC = Everest Base Camp
All heights are calculated in meters. Multiply by 3 (roughly) for feet.
Where: Everest Mountain Range
Destination: Lobuche Peak (6,100) via Everest Base Camp (EBC – 5,600) and Kala Pattar (5,900), the Himalaya Lobuche Peak
Acclimatizationprocess: 2 days in Namche Bazaar (3,200), 2 days in DingBuche (4,700). Acclimatization hike to EBC (5,600). Day rest. Acclimatization hike to Kala Pattar (5,900). Retreat to Lobuche Base Camp (4,900). Final height 6,100 meters at Lobuche Peak Company: Travel Ways Nepal – Things not included were gear rentals and emergency high altitude rescue insurance. Support team: 1 guide, 2 porters, 2 climbing guides. 2 Client total. Number of days: 16 days on paper. 22 days total (Stuck 6 days in Lukla because of adverse weather) Cost: ~2,000 USD
Click the map to see what happened that day during the climb up. Not all events are documented in the map. You may also click on the map and check out the links. View Nepal Everest Base Camp and Lobuche Peak in a larger map
Streets of Thamel, Kathmandu
Day 1 – Meeting our guide Pema Not that we’re in love with Thamel, but that’s where everything happens in Kathmandu. And it’s a pretty cool area.
We left Hasera with bittersweet good byes. Mito’s awesome food and Govinda’s uplifting spirit will be sorely missed. We head with Sujan, our volunteer coordinator who placed us there, to the taxi waiting for us that takes us back to Thamel.
Day 2 – Immigration visa extension Pema picked us up at 10 am to head to the immigration office. Not a difficult procedure to get your visa’s extended. Just requires 30USD for 15 days, minimum and then 2USD for every additional day afterwards. We get back and Ian unpacked and re-packed the packs switching unnecessary stuff from India with needed stuff for mountaineering. Our hotel room is now a mass of boxes, back packs and half of our belongings from Korea.
Day 3 – Last minute scramble before departure Epic scramble for last minute things! No time to write. Not much happened. Just a lot of running around. Plane ride in the morning.
Lukla runway
Day 4 – Let the suffering commence! Ian looks out the cockpit window of the twin otter plane twin propeller plane. The runway is in full view of and covers the whole window. That usually doesn’t happen when you’re about to land. A huge “thunk” and jostle and the plane lands.
Day 5 – Trek We wake up, pack, eat breakfast and set out for Namche Bazaar at 8 am. It was 3 hours away. This is also the first big altitude hike. Climbing from 2,700 meters to 3,400 (approx.) We didn’t know it could take 4 hours to climb 700 vertical meters.
Day 6 – Namche last minute gear purchases. Nothing of significance. Stayed in Namche for acclimatization. Bought a few extra items for the up coming big trek. Resting for 5 hours of hiking on day 6. Namche marks the Alpine level where trees stop and rocks start becoming the common scene carved from the glaciers.
Namche Bazaar
Day 7 – Out of namche and onwards! “1 more hour” Buba, one if the porters said. He said 1 hour an hour ago. We must be going really slow. Were at 3,900 meters and struggling through the clouds that have completely sucked any joy of being in the mountains. Each step is becoming more laboured. At 3,300 meters, the atmosphere provides 13% of oxygen, where as sea level is 21%. We’ve really reached above that level now.
Day 8 – Dingbuche and more acclimatization. A 4 hour hike that otherwise would’ve taken 2 hours. It seems like every time frame that’s given to us we should add 1.5 to it. These porters and guides not only carry a load of stuff, but they’re also pre-acclimatized to this altitude. We made it to 4,300 meters today.
Day 9 – AMS and learning from it. On the rest day in Dingbuche, Ian went for a bike for acclimatization while Christa rested her blistered feet. Ian climbed too high too fast and came back down with the worse AMS (acute mountain sickness) he’s felt yet.
Read more>> Day 10 – Lobuche base camp and storm Not the worst storm ever. But being at 4,900 meters make it seem a lot more real when thunder is going off beside you. The winds are starting to pickup.
Day 11 – Gorakshep and Everest Base Camp We pack only a day pack to head up to Gorakshep which is the kick off point to head to Everest Base Camp. The packing took much longer than we expected as we are tired, frustrated and sick of AMS. The day was incredibly slow going. The altitude and AMS played such a huge role in making the trek really slow. Christa felt nausea got sick a few times. But she continued to be bad ass and headed the trek.
Day 12 – Kalla Pattar and back to Lobuche Base Camp We jerked awake at 5am and tried to shut the alarm off. Then Pema came knocking at our door at 5:05. It was time to get up and climb Kalla Pattar. With bloodshot red eyes, we crawled out of bed. Ian went first to meet Pema. Christa was still in no good shape to tackle the mountain. At 5:30, departure time, she worked her boots on and coat on, like a boss.
Day 13 – Push for the summit “Wake up Didi!” Won shouted. Didi meant sister in Sherpa. He shouted at Christa.
“We’re up! We’re up!” Ian responded back.
It got real the second time the alarm went off and our guides smacking and banging our tent. Christa cursed her AMS and Ian tore out of his sleeping bag… and then cursed his AMS.
Day 14 – 2nd attempt for the summit “Wake up Didi!” Won shouted. Didi meant sister in Sherpa. He shouted at Christa.
“We’re up! We’re up!” Ian responded back. Well, second attempt for the summit. Hours earlier we had as gourmet of a feast as much as our AMS would allow. It’s funny, we’d thought we’d acclimatize faster. It’s been 4 days already living at 4,900 meters ASL and we’re still not fully acclimatized
Day 15 – Retreat to Dingbuche After the longest approaching of our lives; 12 days hike, of which 4 days was for acclimatization, and 8 hours of actual approach to the top of Lobuche, we begin the journey downwards. For the past 5 days We lived at no less than 4,900 meters.
Day 15 – To Namche we go After summiting Himalaya Lobuche Peak, we wake up to a very misty day. Rather, we were in the clouds. And its only called “fog” because we were standing on the ground, otherwise, it’s clouds.
We begin our death march back down. A grueling 9 hour day. With 2 major uphills that takes us back to altitude, or so it seems.
We get into Namche bazaar at 5 and just crash. That marks the longest day hike on this trip. Not counting the summit day.
Day 16 – Resting in Namche. Souvenir shopping! Not much happened today as it was rest day. Our bodies still tired from the hike. No longer do we have the porters, we have to carry our own packs. 15-ish kgs isn’t so bad… for 3 hours. But for 9, it was painful. Christa blistered are getting worse as we have zero off days to let them heal completely. We can only tend them so much while not on the move.
We spend the day in namche bazaar shopping for 3 dollar gloves and 10 dollar shirts. Then caught a short movie based off Jon Krakauer’s book, Into Thin Air. Good thing Christa watched it after we went up the mountain….
We went to bed to prepare for a 6 hour hike to Lukla to get ready to fly out.
Our Porters
Day 17 – The great descent. So remember day 15 as the longest hiking day? Scratch that one. Today we broke 11 hours of hiking straight. Summit day was still 13 hours of uphill/scramble/climb, so that still takes the gold. But today carrying the 15kg pack for 11 hours was probably the best feat we have done together.
At least we are in Lukla now. We’re resting for our flight back to Kathmandu. The weather has been pretty wild. Some days, no flights go out. We wake up tomorrow preparing to go down, but if not, were in Lukla for another day.
Some people have waited 10 days for the weather to clear out. Lets hope we catch our flight straight.
Namche Bazaar is really a Bazaar!
Day 18 – Stranded. This was the first day to see if we can get a flight out. We woke up in the morning and not too soon after clouds rolled in. This was 8:30. No more roaring of engines landing in the field behind the lodge. We read, ate, and slept to pass the time.
Day 19 – Missed flight Our actual departure day. The weather held out a bit, but they were letting all the backed up passengers go first. We missed our flight.
Sitting here now, at night listening to the rain hammer the tin roofs. Just last night the monastery held a party to commence the monsoon season. How fitting.
Day 20 – Waiting for breaks in weather
Finally getting off this mountain!
Still stuck. Raining now, and forecasted for the rest of the week. We pass our time reading books. So far, Game of Thrones has been winning. Had a legitimate chicken leg for the first time today. Real meat! Stumbled upon it by accident at the one restaurant we eat at. Making ourselves at home now. Watching tv at the bottom coffee shop. We own the channels. We’re no longer served food, instead we go look for the ladies that cook our food by wandering into their kitchen. People don’t take our orders. We go place them. Maybe tomorrow we’ll go wander out unto the rain and see if the airport is still there. Day 21 – Considering helicopters at this point Now we’re getting anxious. We still have to get back down to Kathmandu and pack for South Africa. We’re looking at different helicopter options and alternative route down, including hiking to another village and taking a bus. The only flights that are going are helicopters taking dead corpses off the mountain because of the storm hammering at higher altitudes. Day 22 – Weather breaks! Finally out of Lukla! Yes!! We’re out of here! The weather breaks! We’re pushed up in flights! Flying out!! 10 minute notice! Scramble scramble scramble! This concludes the Himalaya Lobuche Peak trek and climb!
Our support team that brought us up, minus 1 climbing guide, Won
Day 12 – Kalla Pattar and back to Lobuche Base Camp
Up top of Kalla Pattar
We jerked awake at 5am and tried to shut the alarm off. Then Pema came knocking at our door at 5:05. It was time to get up and climb Kalla Pattar. With bloodshot red eyes, we crawled out of bed. Ian went first to meet Pema. Christa was still in no good shape to tackle the mountain. At 5:30, departure time, she worked her boots on and coat on, like a boss.
We leave the safety of the hut and into the blanket of fog. We could barely see 5 meters ahead and rain began its’ pitter patter. We needed to acclimatize, even Christa said so, especially after she had gotten sick before EBC. We meet some familiar faces along the way and decide to keep pace with them.
The mountain decided to give us some really mixed reviews of weather as the monsoon season was coming near. It rained and then became sunny and rained again all within a span of 3 hours hiking up and down.
The valley between Lobuche and Everest
We reach the top quite climatically as it was our highest point of the trek yet, 5,900 meters. The air is super thin and we are feeling the altitude big time now. We spend 20 minutes at the top breathing in whatever oxygen is available at that altitude and snapped a few pictures. We being our journey down. Not to Gorakshep, but all the way down to Lobuche Base Camp, where were were on Day 10. A full vertical kilometre away, which took 6 hours to climb.
As we approached Lobuche village, it began hailing. It was about 2pm at that stage and we were both exhausted. We hadn’t eaten anything significant as our bodies weren’t very happy with the altitude. Plus all the hiking we had gone through just earlier. We stop in a restaurant and meet our second climbing guide, Won. We were another hour or two from Lobuche Base Camp where we could actually crash and sleep.
After a gruelling longest 2 hours ever, we collapse in our tent after a small bite to eat. Pema tried to shove as much as he could down our throats. Shortly after, we were shown how to use our climbing equipment, which we are all too familiar with. Funny thing is, never showed us how to use the ice axe, which Christa could use some instructions on. In hindsight, more focus on the ice axes and less on equipment we already know how to use.
After the quick demo and orientation Pema tried to shove more food into our stomachs.
“You’re climbing at 2am!” He shouted as he left the tent.
Not the worst storm ever. But being at 4,900 meters make it seem a lot more real when thunder is going off beside you. The winds are starting to pickup.
That and last night we heard avalanches popping off from everywhere.
The temperatures hover around freezing now. Basecamp is setup with a tent for washroom and kitchen among the sleeping tents. The washroom is a hole dug into the ground. Once you’re done,you shove a bit of dirt to cover it.
Tomorrow, Everest base camp. (Imagine the climbers on Everest right now. Probably around camp 2 and 3, aka half way up.)
We pack only a day pack to head up to Gorakshep which is the kick off point to head to Everest Base Camp. The packing took much longer than we expected as we are tired, frustrated and sick of AMS. The day was incredibly slow going. The altitude and AMS played such a huge role in making the trek really slow. Christa felt nausea got sick a few times. But she continued to be bad ass and headed the trek.
Avalanches could be heard popping off everywhere as we walked down the Khumbu Glacial Valley. Fallen rocks and boulders litter the top of the glacier and from where we were hiking, it seemed as if it was another trail.
We reach closer to the Khumbu ice fall and catch the first glimpse of EBC. From a distance, we could see small, tiny collection of yellow dots on the ice. Upon closer inspection, those were all tents of the expedition teams. It’s located at the bottom of the Khumbu ice fall and the beginning of the glacier, logically. Imagine Everest was a waterfall with a river, the eddy after the waterfall is where the base camp is situated. Except this is all ice and it moves no where as fast as water. Let alone flowing. But it does move. Very slow.
Christa collapsed in her bed with nausea as AMS kicks in, when we got to Gorakshep. We don’t know why, but Ian still felt strong and AMS hasn’t really affected him. He continued up toward EBC with Pema and snapped a few photos.
From Lobuche to Gorakshep took 6 hours. From Gorakshep to EBC and back, took 4 more hours.
Day 13 – Push for the summit “Wake up Didi!” Won shouted. Didi meant sister in Sherpa. He shouted at Christa.
“We’re up! We’re up!” Ian responded back.
It got real the second time the alarm went off a
nd our guides smacking and banging our tent. Christa cursed her AMS and Ian tore out of his sleeping bag… and then cursed his AMS.
We were both exhausted from lack of sleep, hiking all day the previous day and can’t stomach much food the whole time. Hot food was placed infront of us. Copious amounts. There was no way we could’ve eaten any of that. Christa downed her hot chocolate but left most the food. It was still hard to eat. Ian munched a bit more oats but couldn’t finish everything.
Boots were laboriously put on and tied. Headlamps, check. Layers, check. Harnesses, check. AMS, check.
We started trudging through the depths of the night with a very narrow focus of light beam. The rocks slipped under our feet and gave way. 3 steps up, 2 steps down. Ian looks forward to the bigger boulders and ice sheets on the mountain. The going will go faster that way.
Heavy set breathing kicked in immediately. The AMS and fatigue was already pressing down. We had barely began. First rest stop seemed miles away. Then the rests became more frequent.
“We’re retreating” Christa turned to Ian. “I’m far too exhausted for this climb. We haven’t slept or eaten in the past 3 days.”
And with that the team retreats to get some real energy for the actual climb.
We had climbed for 2 hours. Took another hour and half to retreat. We collapse in the tent as the sun peaked out of the sky.
