First day in Trinidad. As suspected, trying to beat the heat during carnival. On the bus ride into downtown, I notice that the city works on water storage tanks, something that is familiar with me through my travels. This can imply that water can easily cut out and therefore require a back up storage of water for the household, as from experience. Other observations were the WASA facilities on the ride down and there seems to be sewage treatment plant in the heart of the city. Not too far down is a Dasani plant for filtering bottling water. It is possible there is a deal struck between WASA and Dasani for bottling water.
I bought huge bottles of water, local Blue Waters (not Dasani), for drinking purposes while wandering Carnival. Even though with a water security issue, access to it seems to be fine during Carnival. Looking around, the sidewalks are constructed higher than I’d expect them to implying high water flooding in those poorly drained areas. Water is easily purchased meaning those who have access to water seem to get it regularly and do not have water insecurity.
I immediately spot the flooding in the streets around the carnival area implying poor water drainage, as it hasn’t rained and there is high algae bloom in the water. My speculation is that this water has been sitting for quite some time. There are also gutters on the side of the road that are deliberately built in for wet season. This was learned in lecture with our guest lecture Nuna. I suspect she went during wet season as the gutters are mainly empty and dried. Though, there was garbage piling up as she had mentioned.
Water seems to be running fine in the dorms and showers. Shower time!
First real visit out to the Waste and Sewage Authority (WASA). This gave us the first real impression of the water security issues on the island. While talking to the WHO Compliance Officer at WASA, it was noted that a bit more than 50% of the population has access to water 24/7. This was quite staggering to me considering how much water was used during carnival. I suppose Port of Spain would be better suited for receiving water as it is the capital of Trinidad. Further surprises was that the tap water is 100% potable as it follows the WHO guidelines of water. I might attempt my stomach’s fate at the tap water seeing as I wouldn’t want to purchase anymore water.
Back to the WASA facility, the water level in their lake reservoir has dropped an inch since Carnival was running. This is a considerable amount seeing that this was in a southern and more remote part of Trinidad, not Port of Spain. The lessons that was learnt during their most water stressed time allowed them to manage the consumption of water more appropriately by controlling the distribution of water. This is contrary to my expectations before coming in as I thought the consumption rate was poorly manage. This does not seem to be the case as they have foresight to curb the demand so that the reservoir and aquifers still have time to replenish itself. Even if it means the population goes without water sometimes. Though, Trinidad does work on a water tank storage at every household so there is some buffer in case there is no water.
Afterwards, we visited the University of West Indies (UWI) and discussed the issues of tourism taking an impact on agriculture. As tourism increases, food for these tourists must be met and results in more production of agriculture. The catch 22 is that this could further drain the water supply even more. There should be a strategy to increase agricultural production while maintaining water security. This to me is where I’m most excited about aquaponics as a potential solution to help in water and food security. We will see tomorrow after our visit to the aquaponic station. An idea would be to increase food production with aquaponic systems to help with maintaining the water supply with the increase of tourists.
Finally my most anticipated visit of the trip, the aquaponics facility. Seeing a smaller scale aquaponic system provides a better realistic goal to building one as the previous one I have seen before was in Cape Town and was a large system meant to sustain a restaurant. The most I learnt from this visit is seeing another type of set up and filtering process. This can help solve both food and water security because of the lack of water loss in the whole aquaponic system. This system uses less than 10% of water compared to traditional agriculture. Though, it cannot grow crops like roots and tubulars as they require soil to be grown in and not water or clay media. Regardless, this can help answer some questions of increased agricultural production but with a goal of sustaining water security as the issue was raised from the previous day.
Afterwards we went to the UWI farm field and did a quick tour seeing how the farm is irrigated from the wells they had dug. They did not consider the impacts of pesticides and herbicides on the soil absorption into the aquifers. Eventually the pollution will filter into the aquifers and pollute their own supply of drinking water. This reinforced my speculation of agricultural run offs from the first post with the potential of chemicals seeping into the groundwater supply. Very surprising that they would not consider this issue as a challenge to sustainable water security. Other investors are also coming into “develop” this farm including the Chinese. Assumptions with a reciprocal deal on return on investment will occur. In hindsight, because they are funded to do research and their goal is monetary gain, they will receive money to do any research including ones that are detrimental to the soil and groundwater and not taking in the cost of externalities.
Going back to UWI. Discussion of water security. Not a lot of focus on the topic of mangroves as of yet. Discussion of coastal regions and rising salt water levels in the aquifers still need to be addressed for my group project. Having exchanged contacts with the professors at UWI will hopefully provide more insight.
Feb 20 – Day 4 – Tobago Department of Natural Resources
At the Botanical Gardens with the Department of Natural Resources, Forestry management sector, it seems the presentation should’ve been done on the first day of breaking down the issues of water security and how it affects different sectors and key players. The presentation addressed many key issues surrounding water security including climate change, which is a focus of my groups research project. However, there was not much information about lowering water in aquifers and more salination in the groundwater or the effects of the removal of mangroves. They said it wasn’t much of a pressing issue at the moment so it seems there was not much focus regarding it.
An introduction to water management that I have not considered was the metered water, which will help with the management of water supply because the individuals and household will decrease usage as they see their bill for the water. But it cannot happen too quickly as people will revolt and needs a gradual implementation. This could play into an integral part of management of the water supply once it is implemented as more conscious water conservation measures will be taken by the household.
Dams Reservoir
Then, together, we took a trip to WASA, Hillsborough dam. There was an interesting conversation between WASA and forestry management regarding the sludge from the dam as its just dumped. That pollution will seep into the aquifers. It felt very corporate with a lot of public relations to try and boost their campaign of water. They didn’t have a straight answer of “no” but instead lots of ideas that have already been thought of to continue increasing supply. A lot of the information had been supplied by the Navet dam. Though the new information, such as the detailed WHO guidelines, a more in depth look at the treatment of the water, the filling of the reservoir, cleaning the dam, operating the dam, and other supply of water other than the dam were topics that were not addressed at Navet.
Control valves
In line with Navet dam, the discussion of the management of water during stressed times was elaborated. They start controlling the water supply during dry season as the water reservoir depletes so there is a schedule to store water into the reservoirs at home. Once those reservoirs are filled, it is up to the individuals to manage their own water. As the water reservoir depletes more at WASA, there will be more strict management of water as they can control the valves that feed into the neighbourhood. This kind of control allows the aquifers and lakes to be replenished, instead of having it drained completely, which will not be sustainable.
Asphalt Quarry
An observation made on the way up the hill, there was an asphalt quarry. The river upstream was nice and clean with a WASA treatment plant to help treat and distribute the water. Just downstream was the asphalt quarry and from there is just polluted water which does not get cleaned or treated. WASA does not want to clean the water downstream because it cost too much to clean that water. There needs to have policies onto those kind of industries to keep the water clean and make the companies pay.
This introduces economics that have been overlooked the whole trip, aside from a brief discussion of government subsidies and the serviced population paying.To fund the cleaning of the water, someone needs to pay. A Payment for Ecosystem Services (PES) could be implemented. Simon Davids from the Forestry management said that the U.S has PES implemented and it is beneficial because polluters pay.
Another observation made as we travelled through central Tobago, we were pointed out more results of the agriculture degradation. We saw the burning which degrades vegetation and negatively impacts the infiltration of water into the soil and produces more runoff and less replenishment of the groundwater supply. This was pointed out by the forestry management.
The post trip reflection journal. Overall, this trip has been a fantastic understanding of what water issue is like looking at other countries other than Canada. It helped put in perspective the economic, governance and management of water security. The biggest takeaway has been the agricultural use of water. First at UWI’s research field and the seemingly absolute neglect put toward protecting it’s local groundwater supply from chemical seepage is inconceivable, especially coming from a university. Secondly from driving from the southern part of Tobago to the northern part, seeing all the slashing and burning. Though out of the control of the forestry management, those farmers can be better educated on the effects of burning of fields that destroy the infiltration process into the ground. Third, the aquaponic system provides solutions to the agricultural challenges posed by water insecurity. Not only does it use less than 10% of water compared to traditional agriculture, it can be easily constructed anywhere at any scale. This could help reduce the water stress while increasing local agricultural production for the increase tourism that will demand more food, decreasing the reliance on imported food.
Other points that have struck me other than the agriculture is the funding of water supply and the distribution process. The fact that WASA is heavily subsidized and charges very little for the water does not encourage conservation from the served population. The only metered water are from the hotels which have applied water conservation measures. Should there be an increase in rates for water, it should not be at such a drastic level resulting in where the poor cannot sustain their livelihoods because they are still left with a water insecurity issue where they cannot access water because of cost. What is left are heavy industries that use water flat rate and get to release it back into not cleaned or filtered. This struck me as we passed the asphalt quarry on the way up the Hillsborough Dam in Tobago. If the heavy industries are also metered for their water and additionally incorporated a PES system where by the water coming back out should meet the WHO guidelines, that could also keep the industries in check and also provide more funding for supporting the water infrastructures.
However, aside from these issues, a further challenge currently is communication between the different branches of the Department of Natural Resource, Forestry Management sector, WASA and the “think tanks” at UWI. The lack of communication is evident in the previous day’s journal where there are disputed facts of food production and the meeting of WASA and Forestry Management representatives. Having these actors on a same level could encourage a much better water security policy where there will be additional funding and also better governance of the water supply.
Having taken this trip, my speculations written in the first journal were inaccurate. The biggest one being the lack of government funding resulting in poor management. Infact, WASA is heavily funded by the government and they do have a strictly regulated policy on water quality, distribution, and management. The management included the scheduling of water supply during the dry season so that the reservoirs do not run out and the groundwater does not acidify. However, complete access to everyone 24/7 supply is still to be achieved. Industries not being checked for compliance was also inaccurate as there is no compliance from them or as far as the research has gone. Free polluting water flows down the river without any barrier or attempt to treat the water. To conclude, this trip has an insightful journey into water security and issues that affect different actors, policy decisions, governance and management.
Talking with Christopher at the Tourism association, we learnt that there is “no” water issue because hotels get the priority from WASA and so they don’t “feel” the lack of water supply running through the country. This is one point of view compared to the other visits we have had where the others have been saying there is a security issue. However, Christopher is still an advocate of water conservation. Some measures implemented are more efficient shower heads, adopting farmers who grow food for the restaurant and WASA has been metering the water on the hotels.
Water metering helps hotels see how much water is being consumed as the cost is reflective of that. The more expensive the water, the more conservation will happen. Currently, it’s only hotels that do the metered water, not individuals. This is inline with Simon from the previous day talking about metering water. This will help with the funding of clean water supply as mentioned in yesterday’s journal, there has not been enough to address the funding shortfall. WASA currently runs at a loss and needs to increase the rates and meter the water to help alleviate the government subsidies. However, this needs to be done in accordance of ratio to the income of the population, as some might not be able to afford basic water and would put a strain onto their livelihoods. Metering hotels and large industries while putting a PES in place would help distribute who-gets-billed-more more equally.
Pigeon Point Resort
As villas and hotels are built, roads are built with water supply and pipes underneath them. The risk is that this prevents rainfall absorption to replenish the aquifers when there are more villas and hotels built. And when the pipes burst, they have to dig up the entire road causing a lot of economical challenges in which they cannot afford. This is inline with the discussions with the Compliance Officer at Navet Dam with water not accounted for because there are leaks in the system.
This also perpetuates the water insecurity issue as we have noted on one of the first days with the discussion of increased tourism at UWI. This increase demands more agricultural production, which creates more water stress. It is struck with lack of water replenishment because of the new roads creating a barrier to infiltration creating a shortage on water. However with Christopher at the the Forestry Management, he has noted that there has been a decrease in food production and an increase in food imports. This discrepancy of facts shows the inconsistency between the institutions that study or enforce sustainable water practices, as Christopher had mentioned there is lack of communication between all.
Day 15 – Retreat to Dingbuche After the longest approaching of our lives; 12 days hike, of which 4 days was for acclimatization, and 8 hours of actual approach to the top of Lobuche, we begin the journey downwards. For the past 5 days We lived at no less than 4,900 meters.
A solid night sleep at base camp, we naturally wake up at 6am. As breakfast was prepared we suffer our last bit of AMS and pack our packs. We are to carry our 20kg packs all the way down to Lukla where our flight awaits us back to Kathmandu.
We were told we can lighten our loads and give our climbing gear to the porters who’ll leave the gear in Lukla for us to repack. We were not going to deny that.
Shortly after, we start our first of lasts. Starting with base camp. 2.5 hours later, we descended to 4,600 meters, the lowest altitude we’ve been in in over 5 days, at Dingbuche. Our AMS instantly completely over. And we feel strong with our breathing.
We remember reaching this altitude the first time suffering our first serious symptoms of AMS. Now we cheer at the fact we have reached this altitude again and getting rid of AMS.
An overwhelming sadness flooded us as we realize this is the beginning of the end. The climax of Lobuche peak is over and before s the long sad journey back down. But to new and exciting adventures back home in South Africa!
Day 14 – 2nd attempt for the summit “Wake up Didi!” Won shouted. Didi meant sister in Sherpa. He shouted at Christa.
“We’re up! We’re up!” Ian responded back.
Well, second attempt for the summit. Hours earlier we had as gourmet of a feast as our AMS would allow. It’s funny, we’d thought we’d acclimitze faster. It’s been one week already living at 4,900 meters ASL and we’re still not fully acclimitized.
We head back up the same route as yesterday, but stronger. Less stops and shorter ones too. We scramble up boulders and pass sketchy roped sections and scramble some more.
By day break, our pace has slowed significantly. That would be 4.5 hours into the hike up. We also passed the snow line and currently trudging on ice. Ian started using his ice axe as Christa gets helped up by the guide. What a gentleman he is.
“You have the biggest smile on your face” Christa said to Ian as she looked back. “And it’s been such a huge smile since we’ve started this hike”
Looking ahead to the summit
Finally the guides stop on a sunny plateau where the sun was beating down the ice. We slapped on our boots and crampons, put on our harnesses and attached ourselves to the line that was set up. The longest rest so far on the trek up. About 30 minutes. We’re at the 6 hour mark of just pure uphill hiking and scrambling. The climbing starts now.
We’re attached to the main safety line by a jumar. Ice pick goes in, using the French Technique, Ian smacks up the side of the mountain. *SMACK SMACK SMACK Rest – slide jumar up* Breath for what feels like 10 minutes, sucking in oxygen through a straw. We are considered at the extreme end of lack of oxygen. At this altitude, we have 9.7% oxygen compared to 21% at sea level. That’s less than half of the oxygen required to function normally.
At this point Christa has suffered as much as she could. 50 meters from the summit she decides to retreat. It’s the smartest thing to do, to know your limits. Had she pushed her limit to keep going, dangerous situations may come sideswipe us blind sided. She turns to head down with her guide leaving Ian and Won to hit the summit.
Victory summit salute!
Ian sees Won run up to the top and decides he could do that too, for the last 5 meters of the climb. Worst idea ever. Oxygen never made it to the brain and his vision goes black. Comes to a split second later breathing his heart out of his throat and crawls up the rest of the 4 meters.
Snap a few pictures, document the top, and retreat. Loaded up the ATC and started the rappell back down. End up at the plateau change into hiking boots and descended using the French Technique.
3 hours later, everyone arrives at camp. 3pm, we get to eat and pass out
Day 8 – Dingbuche and more acclimatization. A 4 hour hike that otherwise would’ve taken 2 hours. It seems like every time frame that’s given to us we should add 1.5 to it. These porters and guides not only carry a load of stuff, but they’re also per-acclimatized to this altitude. We made it to 4,300 meters today.
Were starting to see familiar faces on the trip as other trekkers are taking the same route. Were starting to hear stories of people getting altitude sickness. Ian got his share before pangboche, just yesterday. Christa is holding out strong. were not blasting up huge altitudes every day. Were to stay here in dingbuche for 2 days to acclimatized more.
We also finally dived into a hot showered. 450 rupees. That’s about 5 dollars. It’ll get more expensive as we go up. But this would be (so we think) our last real stop before heading up, so were like to shower. Well probably be doing the wipe down afterwards with next to freezing water.
We are now also in yak territory. And snow territory. And constant high winds territory. Good thing were staying in a tent tonight to Get ready for base camp at lobuche. It’ll be colder and windier than here.
Day 5 – Trek We wake up, pack, eat breakfast and set out for Namche Bazaar at 8 am. It was 3 hours away. This is also the first big altitude hike. Climbing from 2,700 meters to 3,400 (approx.) We didn’t know it could take 4 hours to climb 700 vertical meters.
We follow the river bends from the glacial melt up the trail. After the one bend, we were able to catch iur first glimpses of Everest. It was so far away, but it was still so big. From here on out, it was straight up hill.
We also started to experience the thinner air with heavier breathing and more rests. It took a lot more effort to hike up hill. The porters shot straight up carrying our 40kg bags. They arrived 2 hours before us while carrying our gear while we carried nothing. We’ve never felt so unfit in our lives.
Tea houses also completely disappeared from our previous day. Water, snacks and civilization is starting to become more and more dispersed as villages get further away from more easily accessible roads. Were spending 2 nights in namche bazaar to acclimatize to the altitude.
