Welcome, fellow climbers, to your ultimate guide on the best rock climbing shoes for beginners. Whether you’re just starting your climbing journey or looking to upgrade your gear, choosing the right pair of shoes is crucial for your comfort and performance on the wall. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll delve into the top five rock climbing shoes that are perfect for beginner climbers, while also discussing what to look for when selecting the ideal pair. Let’s get started!
What to Look for in a Rock Climbing Shoes
Before we dive into the specifics of each shoe, it’s essential to understand what features to consider when selecting the best rock climbing shoes for you. In our second episode of Amateur Hour we explained more about talking about rock climbing shoes! The market can be over whelming with the amount of products out there. Some, what I call “myths” are “beginner” vs. “advanced” shoes. I characterize it as purpose function shoes. If you’re predominantly bouldering and doing steep sport routes, you’ll want more aggressive shoes. If you’re doing crack and slab climbing, much less aggressive. But also depends where it is you’re climbing. There is no “real” best rock climbing shoes!
If you’re in Southern Ontario on limestone the best rock climbing shoes for beginners may look a lot like crack climbing shoes, easy soft and pliable leather that allows the foot to move. This is where I would start. Leave the more aggressive “shark fin” types of shoes later, as they do require a bit of getting used to in climbing shoes.
For a new climber, I would suggest prioritizing comfort and fit, looking at toes, width and then heel cup. Everything will come later, ie knowledge of the rubber, shape and shoes used for what climbing. The below are a few suggestions that should cover most feet shapes and size.
However, in short, choosing the best rock climbing shoes in around your street shoe size; don’t worry too much about how tight they should be as you’re learning, or much your toes are curled; if they hurt too much, you won’t have fun climbing! And this defeats the purpose of enjoying the sport!
Best Rock Climbing Shoes for You
Here’s a breakdown of what to look for:
1. Fit and Comfort: When it comes to climbing shoes, fit is paramount. Some argue either you should go super tight where your toes curl under your feet and others argue to keep it loose and flat. As a beginner, the best rock climbing shoes for you is to look for a shoe that snugly wraps around your foot without causing discomfort or pain, otherwise you won’t enjoy climbing at all! Women may prefer shoes designed with a narrower heel and lower volume to accommodate their foot shape.
2. Type of Climbing: Consider the type of climbing you’ll be doing most often. Are you primarily indoor bouldering, or do you plan to tackle multi-pitch routes outdoors? Different types of climbing require different shoe designs, so choose accordingly. Most who start climbing tend to start bouldering or begin with indoor routes. If this is you, the suggestions below are targeted for indoor routes.
3. Closure System: Climbing shoes come with various closure systems, including lace-up, Velcro, and slip-on. Each has its advantages, with lace-up offering a more customizable fit and Velcro providing quick adjustments. Choose the closure system that best suits your preferences and needs. My preference is lace up system.
4. Rubber and Sole: The rubber and sole of a climbing shoe determine its grip and durability. Look for shoes with high-quality rubber compounds that offer excellent friction on the wall. Thicker soles provide more support for long climbs, while thinner soles offer increased sensitivity and precision. But as a beginner, don’t worry about this too much for now. Understanding that the rubber is a key part of the climbing performance will come as your grow as a climber.
5. Budget: As with any gear purchase, consider your budget when selecting climbing shoes. While higher-priced shoes may offer advanced features, there are plenty of affordable options available for beginner climbers.
Recommended Shoes for Beginners
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La Sportiva Tarantula: Explorations choice! This is the best rock climbing shoes in this context. Laces generally fit better as they have more points of contact over your feet to ensure better a closer fit. Available in both men’s and women’s versions, these shoes offer the same great features as the original Tarantula with the added benefit of a customizable fit.
Key Features:
- Lace-up closure for a precise fit
- FriXion rubber for superior grip
- Asymmetrical shape for enhanced performance
Why We Love It: The La Sportiva Tarantula Laced provides unbeatable comfort and performance for climbers, with the added customizable fit of a lace-up closure system.
La Sportiva Tarantula Original: They are your go to for introduction to climbing and are not yet ready to drop some coin into your shoes! These will probably be the most comfortable shoes and as they break in, it will fit even better!
Available in both men’s and women’s versions, these shoes feature an asymmetrical shape and sticky FriXion rubber for excellent grip on a variety of surfaces.
Key Features:
- FriXion rubber for superior grip
- Asymmetrical shape for enhanced performance
- Velcro closure for quick and easy adjustments
Why We Love It: The La Sportiva Tarantula strikes a perfect balance between comfort and performance, catering to the needs of climbers.
La Sportiva Finales are considered “better” in some circles and have been known to be a little bit more “aggressive”. Without getting into too much technical detail, the Finale’s will have better edging performance and will fit tighter.
available in both men’s and women’s models. These shoes feature an unlined leather upper that molds to the foot over time, providing a customized fit and enhanced performance on the wall. The downside is that if you have wide feet, these may feel tight and take a while to get used to the tightness.
Key Features:
- Unlined leather upper for a customized fit
- Vibram XS Edge rubber for superior grip
- Lace-up closure for a precise fit
Why We Love It: The La Sportiva Finale offers exceptional performance and versatility, making it an excellent choice for climbers who are looking to improve their skills.
The Black Diamond Momentums came a little later to the rock climbing shoe game, but they did come out with a decent quality entry-level shoe. Major difference is that this is synthetic and does not stretch as much as the leather shoes and the rubber is known to not be as sticky with their brand of rubber compound.
These shoes are designed with both men’s and women’s versions, ensuring a comfortable and precise fit. The neutral shape and flat last provide ample support for long sessions at the gym or out on the crag.
Key Features:
- Neutral shape for all-day comfort
- Engineered knit technology for breathability
- Velcro closure for easy on and off
Why We Love It: The Black Diamond Momentum combines comfort and performance, making it an ideal choice for beginner climbers
Scarpa Helix are probably my favourite shoes, and arguably the best rock climbing shoes I’ve ever bought. They are super comfortable, sticky and great for crack climbing as well, available in both men’s and women’s models.
These shoes prioritize comfort with a flat last and padded tongue, making them ideal for long days at the crag. The suede leather upper molds to the foot over time, providing a customized fit.
Key Features:
- Suede leather upper for a customized fit
- Flat last for all-day comfort
- Velcro closure for easy on and off
Why We Love It: The Scarpa Helix offers unbeatable comfort and performance in a stylish package, catering to the needs of climbers looking to climb in sport multi-pitch and cracks
In conclusion, selecting the best rock climbing is very subjective, but is essential for a successful climbing experience. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned veteran, choosing a shoe that fits well and meets your needs is key to enjoying your time on the wall. With the options outlined in this guide, you’re sure to find the perfect pair to take your climbing to new heights. Happy climbing, everyone!
Ian is the Subject Matter Expert in this case, having started climbing in high school. Launching outdoor climbing for over 10 years of climbing, getting into trad and vertical ice, then having gone to the Himalayas, climbed in Southern Africa, United States, Canada and Korea. Read up on Ian’s post on Rock Climbing in Korea, here! Damian with a close second on climbing experience with getting out in Southern Ontario and British Colombia. Rob… well, he’s the one who needs climbing shoes!